The Psychology of Clothes - Sex~Kitten.net

UNTIL recently I have been glad to be an artist and writer. Now I have developed an intense desire to become an editor. Editors sit majestically in imposing offices and think out — the impossible.

Then they call their slaves in, and demand such to be accomplished by a prescribed date.

An editor is a person of vision.

Now, psychology, of course, tells us that we cannot imagine ourselves accomplishing a feat, unless it is a possibility.

Psychologists say if it were not possible, the thought could not enter the mind.

They give as illustrations, the aeroplane, the telephone, etc. The fact that the Wright brothers and Mr. Bell could visualise such inventions proved here was a way for them to materialize them, or the thought could never have come into their minds. All of which sounds very probable as regards Messrs. Wright and Bell.

But the psychologists have never applied their methods of philosophy to fashion forecasting. At the time the editor of this magazine smilingly lured me on to this assignment I accepted with great anticipation of what it would lead me into. Since then, I have developed a huge respect for editors in general, I admire the colossal courage they have; swooping down on the unsuspecting and demanding — the impossible!

However, there IS quite a thrill in digging around the largest city in the world trying to wrest a bit of arithmetic style information from conservative designers! I feel like a spy betraying his country as I write this, becsiuse facts were given me in such strict confidence.

It may be interesting to the uninitiated to learn that while you Gentlewoman readers were drinking lemonade (or better) on your cool verandas last June, the designers here in New York were working on the models I have sketched here.

You see, in order to deliver your new fall coat to you, and also to a million more women, on the same date, they must start production in June. All designers and manufacturers work three months in advance, and that was why I nearly melted while judging the merits of fur trimmed coats and suits. Summer is so hot in New York.

Even as you read this, I shall, in all probability, be shivering in some show room, reviewing organdies, voiles, and other summer possibilities for the spring forecast.

And so it goes. Now that I have unburdened my pent up emotions to (I hope) sympathetic ears, I will try and dwell on the brighter side. It really was worth every effort, after I had been allowed to see the new fall models. They are so new, so different, and so appealing. I will speak of dresses first, as dresses for the past few years; have been of paramount importance. Fashion Illustration by Miss Boston, 1923

Fashion Illustration by Miss Boston, 1923

The one-piece dresses and separate coats rising more in demand than blouses and suits. This preference continues and the one-piece dress for the coming season is indeed a delight to the eye.

For street wear, the long straight beltless dress will be worn. It has plain long tight sleeves, and may have either a bateau or square neckline. There is no marked change in necklines or sleeves.

Dresses allow the long tight sleeve the short sleeve, or the sleeveless.

There is a movement in favor of the Indo-Chinese influence on street dresses of the straight line type. Molding the figure the sheathe they follow closely the idea of the Chinese women's garments. A wide flare sleeve may be used, if preferred, to the long tight effect. These dresses are a continuation of the former tailored coat dresses so desirable for early fall wear in such materials as serge, tricotine and twills. A new material called Charmeen, which has a fascinating sheen, will be used extensively for these frocks. Side openings, surplice side effects, and revere closings will be shown, as these dresses are beltless. Instead, gathers are used at the sides and new touches are added in the way of clasps, embroidery and ornaments. Brilliant colors are to be used broadcast on all dresses.

However, there is nothing that can entirely make or mar a frock as completely as this trimming. The selection of details, therefore, requires particularly close and thoughtful study. The trend toward Chinese embroidery opens up unlimited possibilities for one to create embroidery designs of infinite cniirm and color. Embroidery has ever been a most effective trimming, and the craze for period embroidery has been very pronounced during the past season. First it was peasant embroidery, then Egyptian, and now Chinese. But each new mode gives the creators a splendid opportunity to combine the most daring colors and unusual patterns.

A new movement for more dressy frocks is a greater development of the apron effect. These frocks are perfectly exquisite. The old saying, there are two sides to evcrything, is decidiedly true of this type of dress. 1920s Fashions

The back is straight and flat — but trimmed around the front of the skirt is adorned in apron effect tiers, godets, flares, as flouncing ruffles.

This very tight straight-line effect continues to a little above the knee, below which are added these various decorations, And it gives one a most delightfully straight — I might say — oval line, most satisfactory to us who do Mr. Wallace's reducing exercises by Victrola every day.

A surplice drape may also be used, which forms a side opening and develops a marvelous straight line. Dresses are all minus a girdle, but huge bow effects at the back are being used similar to those worn by children. One hardly dares suggest the return of the bustle, but if one is brave enough, one does. It is quite true the bustle is returning under the nom de plume of children's bows; but they are luscious bows of ribbon or chiffon velvet and not a bit forbidding.

Bows are used in eight (8) various ways:

A large ribbon bow on the skirt just at the left knee gives a decided French air. If a black dress, a grey bow is very effective. One may choose one's own color combination.

Dresses are eight (8) or ten (10) inches from the ground for street wear. Evening gowns are longer. Drapery and panels are passe'.

For evening wear, metal brocades will be used and beaded metal laces. I must describe the latter. Perfectly exquisite in its development is a metal lace gown. If the lace designs are of flowers, the petals and leaves are outlined with beads harmonizing with the color of the lace. At a distance the effect is like the moonlight on the water. Velvet gowns are also beaded, usually with Rhinestones. Against a black chiffon velvet frock they shine like stars on a winter's night.

Red, green, blue, brown and black are the popular colors for street wear. For evening the predominating colors are turquoise blue (used with both gold and silver lace). Chinese blue, apricot yellow, with rose pink and black and gold combinations. Fashion Illustrations From 1923

Colored stitching is used a great deal as trimming.

Embroidered fronts on bodices and apron effects is a stunning new innovation. A Paris frock of peach colored satin had a basket of beaded field flowers embroidered on the basque, The gown needed no other adornment. Combinations of satin and beaded lace are features. Embroidered fabrics are a marked note, in satin, velvet and crepe de chine.

The dress sketched on this page showing a side back view — of black chiffon velvet — shows to advantage the tier apron effect, and the flat back. A cape effect adds much to the neckline.

Another dress is of black faille crepe with modern embroidery designs in henna red. This dress is particularly appropriate for early stret wear. The front and back panel arrangement allows the embroidered underskirt to show through the openings at the sides.

The jaunty little frock featuring the bustle effect - or children's bow — is of carol chiffon velvet with apron in tier effect, and a collar of silver lace edged with ermine.

Jenny, in her advanced models for winter, features three-piece suits with jackets, in either wrist or knee-length, and dress skirts short, scant, straight, with movement toward the front still strongly emphasized, and backs absolutely straight and flat.

The marked feature of all coats is the double-collar effect. Practically every coat is shown with a high inner collar in choker effect, buttoning closely around the throat, made of the fabric, with another wide-roll collar made either in fur or fabric.

The popular tendency is toward the wrap-around models, those slinky slender ones that give the effect of a closely encased mummy. These coats fasten at the side. Belts are passe, so ribbons or self material bows will be used at the closing.

Coat lengths will range from seventeen (17) to fifty-two (52) inches. The unseen length may be used with fur tabs extending to the ankles.

Sleeves will be set in and may flare from a fitted shoulder, with cuffs of fur. Plenty of fur will be used for trimming. Caracul is the vogue for fall. The shawl collar will be popular. Materials for suits will be of soft fabrics for the dressy type, and twills, tweeds, and other worsteds for the strictly tailored suits.

For dress coats soft pile fabrics will be used and overplaids, tweeds, chinchilla and soft imported cloth for sports wear.

Black, brown and new grey shades will be the popular colors. Green, notably in the dark shades of olive, is prominent. Two tone effects in coats are being shown.

Featured on this page is a most practical garment It is detachable, and may be worn as a Jacquette for early fall or sports wear, and as a long coat for evening, late fall, or dress wear. The change is instantaneous snd is accomplished by snap fasteners.

The jacquette may be of caracul or a fur fabric, combined with a skirt of an attractive pile fabric.

One of the latest whims of the mode is the embroidered fur wraps. They are truly enchanting. One particularly appealing model, a short box coat, is fashioned of mole akin. It is daringly outlined with dull silver metal thread, range color and almond green wool stiches forming an interesting border.

Long full gathered capes are shown for evening wraps, made in velvet, richly embroidered, trimmed with fur. Many of these capes are in two- and three-tone effects, covered with metal embroidery, and show voluminous collars of fur.

The cape wrap sketched is a gorgeous conceit of black chiffon velvet edged with silk fringe and lined with verte green crepe de chine. The collar is of fox fur.

For sports wear plaids will he featured. Separate skirts are to continue plaited.

Hats are small — closely fitting the head. Trimmings are graceful and flowing. The hat illustrated is trimmed with cock feathers and is entirety in green.

A new bag in a group of accessories is called the jacquette bag, and is made of novelty silk. One carries it under the arm similar to a brief case. It is minus a strap or a handle.

In popular priced jewelry, necklaces of beads will be from thirty (30) to thirty-six (36) inches in length. Some fancy necklaces are in combination beads and metal. The popular ones are, amethysts, turquoise, jade, Lapis, in red, jet, and a tendency towards Mexican opal. It is quite a few years since purple has been worn by the younger set. This season heralds the return of amethysts into favor.

Paris models are wearing ear rings and beads to match. Bracelets of metal and glass combinations in all colors are shown; and the jet snake bracelet is still very popular.

The ear rings pictured arc two examples of the current tendency in this line. One shows the broad pearl shower effect, combining the pearl hoop and drop effect. The other is of crystaline, a composition of glass combined with pearls.

Bands are still in vogue.

Choker collars have developed into objects of art. This one is is jade beads combined with beads of carved Chinese teak wood.

The woodsy shades or brown have been translated into stylish footwear for fall, Atter and beige for early fall, and fawns to champagne for later in the season.